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2008 Eagle
Lake 100
This was to
be the race that saw us move up into longer mid distance racing and hopefully
put us well and truly on the road to having a team capable of running in the
Yukon Quest in a few years time. As with most things in our mushing career to
date, things didn’t quite work out as planned. I guess if I am looking for
excuses and other things to blame (other than my own inadequacies of course) I
would say that we really did not have the best preparation for this race season.
We had aimed at running Eagle Lake 100, the Wilderness 100, L’Odyssee 60 and
finishing the season with a nicely trained and conditioned team in the Can Am
60. Unfortunately Dad’s unforecast and untimely illness and subsequent death
not only put the world into perspective a bit but also meant that we didn’t
have the optimum amount of training. Particularly during the important early
phases – September and October, I was back in the UK saying goodbye to Dad and
then over the weekend of the Wilderness 100 and in the weeks leading up to the
Can Am we were again back in the UK for his funeral.
Enough of
this morbid stuff however all that needs to be said is that we were woefully
short on miles coming into the Eagle Lake weekend – I had planned on 1200
miles on the dogs, I am ashamed to say that we were sat at 360 miles. I
seriously considered withdrawing from the race, and with hindsight I probably
should have done, however I knew that the dogs are always capable of surprising
me with their mental endurance and physical stamina and so figured I could use
this race as a training run whilst getting a first taste of a checkpoint and
checkpoint routines. And so it was on a bitterly cold afternoon towards the end
of January we packed dogs and equipment into van and trailer and set off towards
Maine, Fort Kent and ultimately the small community of Eagle Lake.
This was also
the weekend when the heater in the van finally decided that enough was enough;
it had struggled through the previous winter battling against temperatures that
it was never designed or manufactured to do battle with (it is after all a
girlie British built van where history and culture may be in abundance but snow
and freezing temperatures are not. Mandatory equipment to be carried and/or worn
inside the van are now mittens, scarf, wooly hat (for some reason now referred
to as a toque – Canadians eh) and an ice scraper – essential if the driver
wishes to see the road ahead). Despite the bitter cold and the constant scraping
we did cross the border at Madawasker in good time (this is easily our favourite
border crossing – I guess because they are so used to seeing mushers go back
and forth for the Can Am then they are really geared up for dealing with the
idiosyncrasies of musher and dog teams alike), we found our motel without
problem and then found the school where the musher’s meeting was due to be
held – with only slightly more problem.
As we walked
into the school hall I was getting more and more nervous; we really did not have
enough miles on the dogs to be entering a race such as this and here we were in
both a musher’s meeting and a race with mushing luminaries such as Martin
Massicotte and Andre Longchamps – I had no right to be here. Not too late to
withdraw though – so I walked up to the registration desk, introduced myself
and signed in – it’ll be too late to withdraw now then!? The rest of the
meeting seems a bit of a blur: lots of calm, empirical confidence from the
American contingent, lots of questions and Gallic shrugs from the French
contingent, lots of nervousness and understated worry from the English
contingent. The one bit I do remember with absolute clarity was when race
organizer, Tenley Bennett, got up and thanked all the mushers for training their
dogs to such an extent that they were able to make the Eagle Lake race, a lot of
other mushers had withdrawn from the race because they didn’t have the
training miles on their team. A little understated but stiff upper-lipped
English arm went up at the back of the room ‘Excuse me but I don’t have
enough training miles on my dogs, I would now like to join that other group and
withdraw’. Well at least a little arm should have gone up at the back of the
room – instead a little under stated but quivering lipped English fellow sat
there in, to quote that great leader, Stormin’ George W, a state of complete
and utter shock and awe.
Due to our
slower than normal drive up (no heater, lots of scraping, stopping every now and
again to defrost human occupants), and our slight difficulty in finding the
school, we had missed the Friday evening vet check – not to worry though there
would be a follow up session at the race site on Saturday morning – just one
more thing for me to worry about on race day – as if my woes weren’t enough
already. After the meeting I stopped to talk to Lev Shvarts in the car park,
another Siberian racer and an Eagle Lake veteran.
“Heh
Lev, how are things going? What would be the lowest amount of training miles you
would have on the dogs to consider running this race? I’m thinking about
pulling out.” Dispense with the niceties, cut straight to the quick.
”Oh Hi, you
must be Rob Cooke. About 800 I guess. How many do you have?”
“About
400” I lied in a state of desperate exaggeration (although the only person I
was kidding was myself). Lev looked at me long and hard although not, I don’t
believe, in disbelief – incredulity would probably be a more apt adjective.
Now I have this theory about Siberian mushers, largely borne out of my own
character flaws and evil personae, and that is that we always like to look for
someone else in the race who will take up the ignominy of being the red lantern
winner; all the better if you can encourage someone else to race who you know
you are more than capable of beating. It is unfortunate not only that my
personality is lacking such that I would think this way but also that I am
invariably the one who is both encouraged, and favourite, to be the red lantern
winner at almost every race I enter.
“Oh if you
take it easy you should be OK with that amount of miles” Lev finally retorted,
now safe in the knowledge that even if he got lost again this year he would not
be last; I swear he cackled as he walked away.
And so we
retired to the motel, very quickly dropped and fed the dogs (by the gods it was
cold) and went up to the room to both thaw out and get drunk – as is my wont I
sought solace in the bottom of a Blue bottle – for any natives of the UK
reading this that is not quite as bad or as outrageously beastial as it may
sound.
The next
morning we arose early, I took one final, longing look around the motel room
that I was paying for but had a prescient feeling that I would not be occupying
on the eve and we headed out as quickly as possible in order to get the vet
check out of the way.
Despite
the fact it was now daylight, finding the start site proved even more difficult
than finding the school had on the previous evening. Well that is not strictly
true – we actually found the start site straight away, it is just the fact
that we didn’t know it was the start site and so proceeded to spend the next
30 odd minutes driving backwards and forwards passed it until finally, under
Rhonda O’Hearn’s direction we saw the sign.
The Elusive Race Site
We
pulled in first (that would be a first for us – first at a race, shame it was
at the start and not at the finish), found our parking slot and I started the
task of assembling the equipment (mandatory or otherwise) that was to go in the
sled bag and make the journey with us whilst at the same time packing up my drop
bag to go out to the checkpoint. My first checkpoint drop bag – a soft,
crystalline tear formed in the corner of my eye and then froze immediately
leaving me blind and in agony – well it might of done – I was too nervous to
be aware of such things even if they did happen. It was cold enough though, cold
enough to freeze a brass monkey’s dinglie danglies (for want of a better
phrase) let alone a tear drop; it was probably colder than I have ever
experienced before. The start line is right next to Eagle Lake and so fairly
open to the elements – it physically hurt to take off your gloves for more
than a couple of seconds – it really was that cold. As I was stood in the
middle of a disorganized ruck of equipment, steeling myself to remove my mittens
once again, Jeremy the Vet appeared from nowhere (very much Mr Benn's
Shopkeeper) and introduced himself as the
vet doing the inspections. And so it was that with the minimum amount of mitten
removing and a great deal of haste, at least on my part (did I mention that it
was cold) dogs flew into and out of the van at pace: out, thoroughly checked,
marked, back in again, next one out. Fortunately there were no real problems
although Nero was slightly dehydrated and Jeremy said he would want to check him
at the checkpoint. I think that one of the problems of living so far from the
race sites, and traveling up the afternoon/evening before the start, is that the
dogs don’t get enough water on the drive up and also cannot rest as well if we
are driving as they would if we got to the race location maybe 24 hours in
advance of the race. This is why I think we perform particularly poorly at those
races where we drive through the night, unload the dogs onto the lines and race
straight away à la Bartlett for the last two years – that is my current
excuse anyway. For 2009, and in an effort to compensate somewhat, we have been
trying to get away from home earlier and also been much more careful in ensuring
good hydration of the dogs whilst on the road; I wouldn’t say that our results
have been improving but the dogs certainly seem better hydrated come race day.
Anyway back
to the cold of Eagle Lake; sled loaded to the max with absolutely everything I
could find in the van (needed or not – Rookie Bulge I think it is called),
checkpoint bag loaded onto the checkpoint wagon (another ice ball removed from
the corner of the eye), vet check successfully completed, all that was left was
to sit and wait for the start. Still with an hour to go to my start time we
decided on a Last Supper-like dining experience so as to build up my depleted
layers of body fat – ahem and give me strength for the marathon ahead. We
headed off to the local restaurant for a last breakfast, a last bit of warmth
and many, many last cups of coffee.
Rookie Bulge?
And so
eventually time to prepare for the start. As more and more dogs flew out of the
van and onto the ganglines, so the opportunities to withdraw from the race
became less and less until it really was too late. The team ahead of me was
being led into the start chute, the team behind me was ready for the off, my
team was all hooked up and screaming – this was it, the time that Eeek at
wheel decided to announce to us that he has a liking for chewing necklines at
the most inopportune moments. Well why not have one more panic with only 2 ½
minutes to my departure? Neckline replaced with seconds to spare, we careened
out of the start chute and on my way in our first 100 mile race – oh what
jolly times.
Being in a
100 mile race may have been a unique experience, what was to follow however was
not. Very soon teams starting passing us with monotonous regularity as I made my
way quickly, and inevitably, towards my rightful place at the back of the pack.
The mushers compliments were flying:
“Ah
Monsieur Cooke you have a very well behaved team and so easy to overtake, they
are a credit to you.” This I think is probably Ultimate Inverse Complement
Number 2 and roughly translated means ‘Man your team are slow but we got by
them OK so I figured I needed to say something nice.’
“Heh Rob,
nice looking team man.” Ultimate Inverse Complement Number One. ‘See you
have Siberians, aren’t they slow.’ To make matters even worse, if that was
possible, the words vapourised out of Lev’s mouth as his own ‘nice looking
team’ of Siberians left me for standing on a hill. I never really had any
doubts that he and the other two Siberian teams in the race, Kathy Lesinsky and
Bob O’Hearn, would beat me easily but was it really necessary for all three
teams to overtake me so soon after the start? This was going to be a long, hard
and ultimately very slow race.
If there can
be any consolation to the status quo (and let’s face it, anyone who has ever
heard them should always be granted compensation because of Status Quo) it is
that the trails were beautiful and perfectly groomed (helped of course by the
fact that 15 other teams were out there ahead of me) and the weather was perfect
– cold yes but clear and sunny too. As we are want to do, we ambled on towards
the checkpoint. As dusk began to fall I became patently aware that a snowmobile
was approaching from behind. We had been told that we shouldn’t see too many
machines on the trails and that they had been warned to watch out for us, and to
be fair apart from a couple that I ran into within the first ¼ mile of the
start, I really hadn’t seen any at all. However the trail was at this point
fairly narrow so I selected a suitably wider place, stopped and turned to hail
the driver by. The snowmobile stopped and a pair of eyes peered at me from
behind a darkened visor. I waved again, the driver waved back but just sat
there. I muttered something to myself (unprintable I might add), pulled the hook
and set off chuntering away to myself as I do. The snowmobile dropped back but
didn’t go away – it wasn’t bothering the dogs but it was bothering me –
the last thing I wanted as darkness fell was this idiot trying to pass me on a
narrow trail – I stopped, he stopped, I started, he started: I was getting
annoyed. And then it dawned on my why this guy was doing this; I was at the very
back of the pack and he was the trail sweep, a volunteer giving up his time to
ensure I could be nursemaided around the course – I was now annoyed with
myself for being annoyed with him. On we pushed.
Beautiful trails and sunny days
One of the
joys of carrying a GPS is that you know exactly how far into a race you are and
how far you have to go. One of the annoyances of carrying a GPS is that you know
exactly how far into a race you are and how far you have to go. As the GPS was
telling me that we were coming up on 48 miles I figured that we must be just
about on the checkpoint. We took a right turn off the main trail and onto a
smaller side road and so I figured this was it, the checkpoint at last. On we
went, mile after mile up the side trail and still no checkpoint. As we went by
50 miles I figured I had missed it, I stopped the team in order to turn them
round; the dance of the snow mobile continued – I stopped, he stopped, we
looked at each other (figuratively) through the darkness, we both held our
ground; surely if I had missed the checkpoint he would have notified me. I
pulled the hook and carried on up the road. Another mile done and still no
sanctuary, I stopped again – perhaps this was all a test – I remember
half-hearing how Lev had missed the turn to the checkpoint the previous year and
gone on for a couple of additional miles, perhaps the trail sweep wasn’t
allowed to help. Perhaps a bit further; on we trundled and then rounding a left
hand bend there it was, Moose Point Camp, the checkpoint all nicely illuminated
and cosy looking. The plan was to get the team in, debooted, fed and bedded down
without looking like the complete incompetent rookie that I so blatantly was.
Volunteers led us into the last available spot next to the penultimate team,
provided hay and warm water and then unaware of my own obvious frailties left me
to my own devices and musing. Jeremy the Vet vaporized out of the darkness
(seriously this guy just needed the fez).
“Hi Rob,
how was the run in?” I cast him an exhausted look.
“Do you
want to check over the dogs?”
“No rush,
you just tell me when you are done and I’ll have a look at them.” He stood
back and watched me dither up and down the lines. Great, so now I had an
audience to my checkpoint chicanery and complete incompetence.
Eventually I
managed to get food into most of the dogs (Nero the Dehydrated being one who
wouldn’t eat or drink) and wrist wraps again on most dogs, although both Paris
and Poppy appeared to be in obvious discomfort and resisted my efforts. I asked
Jeremy to look over all three.
“I can’t
see anything really wrong although Nero is still slightly dehydrated. When you come
into the lodge I’ll introduce you to Turner, the head vet – I have got to
head out in a bit but have him check them out again before you leave”.
My final task
was to move Poppy up into the lead position next to Medea; both girls were coming into season
and the last thing I wanted was Cal the Randy (or any of the other dogs for that
matter) getting to them. Just to be sure I attached the girl’s tug lines to
their collars so as to maximize the distance between swing and lead.
I looked
across at the warming glow and the ambience radiating from the lodge; the lodge
full of mushers, the lodge full of faster and much more experienced mushers, the
lodge full of mushers that would fall silent as I walked in through the door,
the lodge full of mushers all staring at the slowest musher ever before pointing and breaking out into
uncontrollable laughter. I worried around the dogs a bit more, readjusting a
wrist wrap here, redistributing some straw there. Eventually I plucked up
courage and, I am sure much to the relief of my hitherto ‘worried’ dogs,
walked over to the lodge full of mushers.
As I swung
open the door it happened…I was hit… by the heat from the fire and the
warmth of the atmosphere. Someone sat by the fire looked up and cast me just a
fleeting glance, probably encouraged by the inrush of the frigid night air, but there was no break in the comfortable conversation.
“Heh man
how’s it going?” One of the lead mushers squeezed out of the door behind me,
his mandatory lay over done just as mine was beginning. I was grabbed by the arm
“Hi Rob how are you doing?” It was one of the medical team, there to ensure
mushers were also fit to continue. After a few well thought out questions
designed, I believe, to test mental acumen (although mental acumen must always be a doubt
in most mushers – would an intelligent and well balanced individual really
take part in this sport/hobby/calling?) I was led into the dining area and
presented with pancakes, cookies and lots and lots of coffee – even the odd
shot of whiskey was offered – and declined I must say – Oh for a very stiff
upper-lipped G&T. One of the other mushers was sat at the table:
“You been
out there quite a while in the checkpoint! What you been doing?”
‘Oh just
worrying over the dogs, being a complete novice, not having a clue what I was
doing, worrying over the dogs some more,’ I thought.
I just shrugged and
continued to stuff food into my mouth so that he was under no illusions that
further questions would be greeted by spraying pastry. After I had eaten, Jeremy
the Vet introduced me to Turner the Vet (strange how they all seem to have the
same surname – must be something to do with the original calling, or maybe
just a coincidence) who told me to grab him just as I was going to boot the dogs
for the run home and he would check them out then.
After about
an hour I had defrosted sufficiently that I felt able to go out to worry the
dogs some more. They all looked truly exhausted – hardly a head was raised to
greet me as I went along the line, replacing straw and wraps, patting as
required and cooing at them in an effort to let them know how proud I was of
them all. Satisfied that they just wanted to ignore me, I went back into the
slowly emptying lodge to fill up on more coffee. My departure time was not until
well after 10pm so I had a pretty good idea that I would be running all night
– I was going to need the caffeine reserves (yea, like the absolute freezing
cold and the fear of a moose encounter wasn’t going to keep me awake!!). I
settled back into a recently vacated armchair (vacated as in a musher had just
got up and headed out, not as in the armchair had just got up and headed out
taking me with it, although that may have been a quicker way to get back to
Eagle Lake) by the fire and struck up a comfortable conversation with Troy who,
it turned, was the trail sweep. I apologised profusely for keeping him out on
the trails for so long. Kind of thought and obviously tolerant of spirit he told
me not to give it another thought – he had been worried that his snow machine was
bothering the dogs.
As more teams left the checkpoint I again checked the dogs,
again they looked exhausted, again they hadn’t moved – now I began to worry
that maybe they wouldn’t be motivated to leave the checkpoint when the time
came. Slightly concerned, but obviously not overly, I returned to find the
armchair was still there so I sank down and returned to the comfortable
conversation. About 30 minutes before my departure time I wrapped up one final
time, took one final draught of coffee and headed back out to the lot to get the
dogs ready so that Turner the Vet could come out and check the dogs over. As I
walked across to where the dogs were bedded down I could hear a dreadful noise
emanating from my left hand side, out towards the exit point. I dismissed it as
the team in front of me leaving the checkpoint – I hoped my guys would be that
animated when we came to leave (idiot). I walked across the lot to my team and then
stopped still and just stared in disbelief. The cacophony continued behind me,
mere background to the devastating scene before me. Where once there had been a
team of ten tired dogs there were now ten neat but very empty piles of straw.
For poetic and/or comic effect I rubbed my eyes, thrust my chin forward and
stared good and hard but still no dogs appeared. The crescendo behind me was
growing; no longer satisfied by being just background noise it was forcing
itself into my waking consciousness and then above the howling and shrieking of
hounds I heard my name being hollered. “Get Rob Cooke out here now – get him
out here NOW.” I turned, I looked, I couldn’t believe. There in front of me
was a cartoon ball of string of Tom and Jerry proportions, but there were neither meeces nor catsies
protruding from this ball but huskies, and not just any old huskies either –
my huskies. I ran across – I had never seen such a tangle before, a scene of
great catastrophe was before me. To make matters worse whilst some dogs were
seizing on this opportunity of unsupervised closeness to exact revenge for a
long held grudge on a kennel neighbour, several dogs were doing their best to
have their evil ways with Poppy and Medea, ah the joys of running girls coming into
season. This in turn inspired more fights amongst the dogs and even more tangles
as the wheel dogs, kennel grudges giving way to animal instincts, decided that
they too should join the humpfest developing at the head of the team. These
dogs, who not 30 minutes previously, had been cute little balls of tired husky
fur, were now a frenzied sex-driven rabble. I don’t know how we did it but
three of us finally managed to separate and untangle the ball, got the team
lined back out and confirmed that there were no serious injuries (other than to
my already tattered reputation) just as Turner strolled up to check the dogs
over. Lined out and sorted they may have been, calm and collected they were not.
My guess is that as the team ahead of us had been heading out of the rest area,
the excitement of that team had raised my guys from their slumber and apparent
exhaustion and they had decided that they too were off, to badly quote Bono –
with or without me. As it was we still had about 20 minutes until my earliest
departure time but there was now no way the guys were going to sit and wait
calmly. For the full 20 minutes every one of the ten dogs constantly screamed
like mad and slammed and slammed into their harnesses wanting to be released
back onto the trails. Any last reserves of energy they may have had for the run
home were being used up in those long, long 20 minutes. Even as the volunteers
fought to lead us back up to the departure line with minutes to go the dogs
continued to scream and slam. In the end, and realizing that we were no threat
to anyone, I think we may have been released from the checkpoint a couple of
minutes early just to get us the hell out of there; the noise of the team was
such that even the whiskey totters from the Lodge may have been aroused from
their drunken slumber.
I was pretty
amazed at the dogs that had an hour previously been in a state of apparent
exhaustion, now actually appeared really strong and animated as we headed back
down the road. Perhaps I should have been holding them back a bit but we were
making good progress so I let them run. Slowly but surely though we settled back
into the rhythm of the previous evening – a legionnaire’s like slow advance.
Passing the
first safety station out of the checkpoint a marshal hollered out asking if I
was bib number 2, I replied in the negative but did get a sadistic buzz that
there was still another musher who was to pass this point – he must have taken
a wrong turn when we swung back onto the main logging road. The sensation of red
lanternless euphoria lasted for about an hour, an hour during which I kept
checking over my shoulder for a light from behind. But then my schizophrenic
self came to two conclusions – either the guy was very lost and in trouble in
which case I could draw no pleasure from the situation or far more likely the
marshal had missed the musher going by him. The trail sweep was still nowhere to
be seem and this kind of fueled conclusion number 1 but it was a very tentative
fuelling and deep down I knew the red lantern was mine – but even that now
seemed like a worthy objective, if only I could keep the team moving.
We continued
to push into the night advancing slowly along the trail and encountering an
awful lot of fresh moose tracks in the process but thankfully never any moose.
In our whole mid distance mushing experience we have yet to meet any mooses (or
should it be meese – although isn’t that the plural of mice) on the trail
– ever. They are not resident in the parts of Nova Scotia where we live and
train and fortunately I have yet to meet any at races. I have a theory that they
are out there with the full intent of terrorizing myself and the team but get so
fed up waiting for us that they all go home to their meese heese long before I
pass through. The same happened at the Can Am this year (2009); Kasey McCarty,
running just in front of me, had quite a problem with a moose but although I saw
all the tracks (which the dogs expertly and gingerly picked their way through)
thankfully I saw no moose. On the other hand perhaps my theory is bunkum and I
have just been very lucky – a luck that I know will not continue forever; it
does worry me how the dogs will react when first confronted by a trail hugging
moose – a story all in itself I have no doubt.
As we ran
(for want of a better term) through 85 miles the dogs started to hit their
individual walls and the lack of training, and hence stamina, really started to
show. Medea and Paris, who had been at lead more or less from the start (another
rookie mistake made) had to be moved back as they were developing slight limps
and looked mentally exhausted. The trouble was I didn’t really have any other
leaders to replace them with. Poppy had led for the first couple of miles but
experience had shown that she really didn’t want to be up there anymore. Hektor had
had some time at lead in training but probably has the least stamina of all the
dogs on the team (possibly because he is the one who goes the most berserk at
the start and who was certainly screaming the loudest in the checkpoint). Cal
and Keelut can lead but Cal and Keelut can also misbehave when given the
additional freedoms that come with lead; Nero, Lewis and Eeek have no desire to
be at the front, Fya has no desire to listen to me when at the front. And so
with no one really to lead, and despite trying a few combinations, we slowed to
a complete crawl – I am proud to say that the guys never quit once but boy
were we slow. As the light of morning dawned and we edged slowly closer to Eagle
Lake I heard the rumble of an early morning snow mobile coming from the town. As
he came around the corner I had stopped and was trying to rotate another dog into lead
to inspire us for the run in.
“You OK
Rob? It’s been so long since you went though the last safety station that
everyone was worried that you had got lost?”
Hektor and Fya bring us home
I said that
we were fine but very tired – I wanted to keep the conversation short – I
was tired and I just wanted to get the dogs back to the van as soon as possible
so they could rest – I had never seen them this tired before and I hated
myself massively for putting them through this. With Fya and Hektor now up in
lead we finally crawled across the finish line much to everyone’s relief. The
finish timer was on hand to officially greet me in; Jeremy the Vet was again on
hand to check the dogs (all were fine but tired), Louise was on hand to take
responsibility for the dogs. After a few discussions she persuaded me
that the dogs were fine in her care and I was to get inside and warm up
immediately and so I hugged each dog in turn and headed into the diner. And
hell, we still had about 1 ½ hours before the Awards Breakfast talk about good
timing – done and done.
30 minutes
later I quite literally limped back into the motel room in order to shower and
change ready for the Breakfast – who needs sleep, it is very overrated. As I
peeled off layer after layer I decided a bath might be in order – I felt like I needed to
bring up my core body temperature by a few degrees. As I removed the second
layer of socks I was greeted by a most pleasant sight - three blackened toes.
That will be another first then – frostbite.
And apart
from new friends made and many more happy memories, the frostbite and the red
lantern are my lasting legacies of the 2008 Eagle Lake 100. The Lantern sits on
the bureau next to the two lanterns won at Tahquamenon, whilst on
particularly long and cold training runs I can guarantee that both my big toes
will start to tingle – a stark reminder never to put under prepared dogs (and
musher) through that again.
The Quest
seems a very, very long way away.
Rob
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